The effect is a childlike sensation of not having the full context of the place you’re in, just knowing there’s more you might see around the corner. “It occupies your eye in a gentle, comforting way when it’s done well,” Nicholas adds. “We kind of play with that aspect of it, changing it from being this very loud, garish ‘Happy New Year’ thing. You can use it in a way that’s still very loud, but you can work it into an everyday setting. It’s permeable, like a portal.”
Walking into James Veloria in New York’s Chinatown is a comforting rush.